Have you recently looked into the costs of professional interior home painting? If so, you’ve likely noticed that prices, like many other services, have steadily climbed in recent years. This surge in cost makes learning to paint a room yourself not just a rewarding DIY skill, but a significant money-saver. My husband, Jeff, and I first embarked on our painting journey years ago, taking a class at a local hardware store shortly after we were married. Since then, we’ve painted over 30 rooms, collectively saving thousands of dollars by tackling these projects ourselves. The satisfaction of transforming a space with your own hands is truly unparalleled, and with a little guidance, you can achieve professional-looking results too.
I recently completed painting the primary bedroom in our current home, meticulously documenting each step along the way to share a comprehensive, step-by-step guide with you. While there’s certainly a learning curve, and your very first painting project might not be picture-perfect, you’ll quickly gain confidence and proficiency. The incredible visual impact a fresh coat of paint and a new color can have on a room is truly inspiring! (This post includes affiliate links; a full disclosure statement is available {here} for your reference.)
Witness the Power of Paint: Inspiring Before & After Transformations
One of my favorite “before” and “after” examples, showcasing how dramatically a simple change in paint color can transform a space, is the family room in our previous home. Take a look at how it appeared when we first moved in:
And here’s the stunning transformation after decorating and painting everything in a crisp Benjamin Moore Cloud White:
Family Room Sources: TV console (similar) | Chandelier (satin bronze) | White tasseled pillow cover | Blue linen pillow cover | Green & blue block print pillow cover | Faux fiddle leaf fig tree | Rug | Pair of floor poufs | Art prints (details in {this post} | Acrylic coffee table (similar) | Coffee table tray (28″ square) | Black and white striped box (on coffee table) | Brass cricket (on coffee table) | Wood beads | Basket planter | Rattan chair
Another striking example is our living room, which initially had this appearance:
It ultimately achieved a much more sophisticated and serene vibe after painting the walls Sherwin Williams Anew Gray and undertaking a fireplace remodel:
Living Room Sources: Loveseat & ottoman (custom order from Lee Industries) | Linen swivel chairs | Wood floor lamp | Framed leaf art print | Woven ottoman tray | White vase | Faux eucalyptus | Bone beads | Gray plaid pillows | Gray crosshatch pillows | Black & white striped pillows | Round mirror over fireplace | Vases on mantel – no longer available | Faux flowers in mantel vases | Decorative snail | White coral (similar)
Inspired by these dramatic changes, let’s dive into the practical steps of painting your own room!
1. Gather Your Essential Painting Supplies for a Professional Finish
Achieving a high-quality paint job starts long before you open a can of paint – it begins with gathering the right supplies. While it’s tempting to cut corners on tools, investing a few extra dollars in quality brushes and rollers will not only lead to a superior finish but also save you considerable time and frustration. Imagine not having to pick lint off your freshly painted walls! You can definitely save on items like disposable Solo cups for paint or repurposing old sheets as drop cloths, but certain tools are non-negotiable for a smooth, efficient project.
Here’s a detailed breakdown of the essential supplies you’ll need for your room painting project:
- Work Light: A bright work light, such as {this one}, is indispensable. It serves a dual purpose: illuminating your workspace for painting and, critically, helping you spot any imperfections on your walls during the crucial prep phase.
- Paint Tray: A sturdy paint tray like {this one} is necessary. To simplify cleanup (and prevent yours from ending up looking like mine!), always use a liner. You can line it with aluminum foil, cling wrap, or purchase disposable liners such as {this type} that perfectly fit inside. Pro tip: Secure the liner to your tray with a bit of painter’s tape to prevent it from shifting during use.
- Paint Cup: For cutting in (edging), a small paint cup is far more convenient than lugging around a full paint can. A disposable Solo cup works, or for a small investment, consider {this specialized paint cup}, which is my absolute favorite. Its adjustable handle and integrated magnet for holding your brush are game-changers.
- Paint Can Opener: While you can find these online {here}, they are often much cheaper (usually under $1) at your local paint or hardware store. Don’t forget to grab a free stir stick while you’re there – it’s crucial for properly mixing your paint.
- Paint Pouring Spout (Optional but Recommended): I highly recommend using a pouring spout that clips onto the top of your paint can. This simple accessory prevents paint from accumulating in the can’s rim, making for cleaner pours and easier resealing.
- Paint Brush: Opt for a high-quality angled brush, ideally 2 to 2 ½ inches wide. My top recommendation is {this 2″ Purdy Clearcut brush}, known for its ability to create exceptionally crisp lines when “cutting in” around edges and trim.
- 9″ Roller Frame: For rolling paint on your walls, I personally use and love {this roller frame}, which features a convenient built-in twist-and-lock extension pole that extends up to 3 feet. This makes reaching the top of your walls effortless. If you’re also tackling the ceiling, you’ll need a standard roller frame with a threaded end, like {this one}, which screws onto a longer extension pole such as {this 5-12′ extension size} – perfect for most ceilings.
- Rollers: I am a staunch advocate for {these ⅜″ nap 9″ Purdy rollers}. They deliver a beautifully smooth finish without excessive texture. While some professional painters use ½″ nap rollers because they hold more paint and can speed up the job, they often result in a less smooth finish. For most DIYers aiming for perfection, sticking with ⅜″ nap is best.
- Sandpaper & Sanding Block: You’ll need both coarser and finer grits of sandpaper for proper wall preparation. I typically use 150 grit for smoothing spackled areas and 220 grit for a final light sanding of the entire wall. A sanding block makes this process much easier and more ergonomic.
- Drop Cloths: Protect your furniture with thin plastic drop cloths like {these}. For floor protection, especially against heavier drips and spills, invest in canvas drop cloths such as {these}. Canvas cloths are washable, reusable indefinitely, tear-resistant, and provide a much safer, non-slip surface compared to plastic. I find the 4′ x 15′ runner size ideal for covering the length of a wall. If painting ceilings, a larger canvas cloth for the center of the room is also beneficial. As a budget alternative, old sheets can protect floors from light splatter, but always place something thicker under your paint can and tray for major spills.
- Brush & Roller Cleaner: A specialized cleaning tool like {this one} makes cleaning your tools significantly easier and more effective. You might also consider {this roller spinner}, which I’ll detail later in the post, for even quicker cleaning.
- Putty Knife: A simple putty knife, such as {this variant}, is essential for applying spackling compound and various other prep tasks.
- Spackling Compound: Keep a quality spackling compound, like {this popular option}, on hand to fill small holes, cracks, and imperfections in your walls.
- Painter’s Tape: I recommend having both 1″ and 2″ tape. The wider tape is excellent for protecting floors from baseboard paint, while the narrower tape is useful for specific masking tasks.
Additionally, you will certainly need a sturdy ladder for reaching high areas. You may also require caulk and a caulk gun if you have any visible cracks or gaps between your walls and trim that need sealing prior to painting.
2. Choosing Your Paint: Color, Sheen, and Primer Essentials
Selecting the right paint can sometimes feel more daunting than the actual painting itself! The same paint color can appear vastly different depending on your room’s natural light, its directional exposure (north-facing vs. south-facing), and existing decor. Therefore, it is crucial to test your chosen colors directly within the space you intend to paint.
Selecting the Perfect Paint Color for Your Home
My preferred method for testing paint colors is using Samplize’s 9″ x 15″ peel-and-stick paint samples, which you can find {here}. These large samples feature actual paint rolled onto them – not just digital representations like traditional color strips. You can easily stick them on different walls and move them around to observe how the color interacts with varying light conditions throughout your room:
This method is a significantly easier and more accurate way to test colors than buying multiple sample pints of paint and painting swatches directly on your walls or boards. Looking for some inspiration? I’ve curated lists of my favorite and most recommended paint colors in these helpful posts:
The Best White Paint Colors
The Best Blue Paint Colors
The Best Greige Paint Colors
Once you’ve confidently chosen your ideal paint color, the next step is to accurately determine how much paint to purchase. For an average-sized room, two gallons of paint for the walls is a common estimate. However, for a precise calculation based on your room’s unique dimensions, I recommend using a reliable paint calculator, such as {this one} from Sherwin-Williams.
Understanding Paint Sheen: Flat, Satin, Semi-Gloss & More
Beyond color, selecting the appropriate paint sheen is vital for both aesthetics and durability. Different sheens offer distinct advantages. Flat or matte paints, for instance, are excellent at concealing minor wall imperfections and are generally easier to touch up because new paint blends seamlessly with existing coats. Conversely, semi-gloss and full-gloss finishes are exceptionally durable and simple to wipe clean, making them ideal for high-traffic areas. Here’s a quick guide to the common uses for the six most prevalent paint sheens:
It’s worth noting that modern advancements in paint technology have significantly improved the durability of lower-sheen paints, making them far more robust than they once were. Personally, I favor the visual appeal of lower sheen paints, opting for flat or matte finishes on walls throughout our home, while reserving satin for doors, baseboards, and other trim. However, my home doesn’t contend with young children actively running into walls and baseboards. Your lifestyle and household activity levels should absolutely be a primary consideration when making your sheen selection!
To Prime or Not to Prime: Understanding When You Need Primer
Let’s demystify primer and determine when an initial coat is necessary before applying your topcoat. You absolutely need to prime your walls if you are: (1) painting brand new, unpainted drywall; (2) dealing with numerous repaired spots on your walls, as primer will ensure an even absorption of the topcoat; or (3) covering existing wall stains, such as those from past water damage (in this specific case, use a dedicated stain-blocking primer). Two other common scenarios that necessitate primer are: (4) if you are transitioning from a dark paint color to a significantly lighter one, for instance, painting white over a deep navy blue. Without primer, you will likely need *several* coats of paint to adequately hide the dark undertone. Finally, (5) always prime first if you are painting with latex (water-based) paint over an existing oil-based paint. While latex is the current industry standard, older homes, especially their trim work, may have been previously painted with oil-based formulations.
Wondering how to determine if the paint on your walls or trim is latex- or oil-based? It’s a simple test: take a colored towel or cloth, soak it with rubbing alcohol, and gently rub it over an inconspicuous painted area. If the paint transfers onto your cloth, it’s latex-based. In this scenario, you typically don’t need a primer unless there’s a drastic color change planned. If, however, the paint does not come off when rubbed with alcohol, it’s oil-based. In this situation, you must apply a suitable primer to those painted surfaces first before proceeding with latex paint. Alternatively, for oil-based trim, Benjamin Moore’s Advance paint is a fantastic option, as it is formulated to adhere successfully over both oil and latex paints without the need for a separate primer.
Choosing Ceiling Paint: More Than Just White
What about ceiling paint? My approach depends on the wall color. If I’m painting the room’s walls white, I typically extend that same white color to the ceiling, but in a matte or flat finish. This creates a cohesive and seamless look. If, however, the walls are going to be a more vibrant or colorful hue, I opt for a simple, dedicated white ceiling paint. My personal go-to for this is Benjamin Moore’s Muresco, known for its excellent coverage and bright, uniform finish:
Do you absolutely have to paint your ceilings white? Absolutely not! While I personally favor white ceilings for their ability to create an open and airy feel, it’s purely a matter of personal preference and design choice. You can certainly choose to paint your ceiling the same color as your walls – whether that’s a calming blue, a vibrant green, or any other shade – for a more enveloping and sophisticated atmosphere. In fact, I often recommend matching wall and ceiling colors in rooms with architectural intricacies or numerous funky angles, as it helps to visually unify the space and makes it feel more cohesive and intentional.
One final, crucial tip when selecting and purchasing your paint… It is always best practice to acquire all the paint you anticipate needing for your project at once. Subtle variations in color can occur between different batches of paint, even if from the same brand and color code, or when purchased from different stores or at different times. If you buy multiple gallons, even simultaneously, it’s highly recommended to “box” them by combining them into a larger, empty 5-gallon bucket and mixing thoroughly. This ensures complete color consistency across all your paint. To be honest, I haven’t always followed this mixing step as long as I bought all gallons at the same time and haven’t encountered major matching issues, but boxing your paint is the professional and recommended method to guarantee a perfectly uniform color throughout your room.
3. Prep Your Room: The Foundation of a Flawless Finish
Note: For older homes (typically those built before 1978) where lead paint might be present on the walls, it is imperative to exercise extreme caution when sanding or scraping painted surfaces. Please consult {this essential publication} from the New York State Department of Health for detailed safety guidelines and precautions regarding lead-based paint.
A truly exceptional paint job is built on meticulous room preparation. Begin by moving all furniture away from the walls, ideally to the center of the room. Protect your floors and furniture from inevitable paint splatter and drips by thoroughly covering everything with drop cloths. Remember to also remove all light switch and outlet covers – a small step that prevents messy paint lines and ensures a professional look. Next, meticulously prep your walls. This involves a careful inspection for any gouges, deep scratches, or minor imperfections that need addressing. The most effective way to spot these subtle flaws is to shine your work light along the length of the wall as you walk, observing it at different angles.
Repair any wall damage by filling the affected spot with spackling compound. Use a putty knife to firmly press the compound into the defect, then carefully smooth the spackling flush with the wall surface:
Once the spackling has completely dried (refer to product instructions for drying times), use sandpaper (I typically use 150-grit sandpaper for this step) to gently sand the area until it is perfectly smooth and seamless with the surrounding wall:
If your project includes painting the trim, inspect it for any gouges or damage and repair these using wood filler, sanding it smooth once dry. Following repairs, give your entire walls (and trim, if you’re painting it) a quick, overall light sanding with 220-grit sandpaper. This creates a slightly abraded surface, which significantly improves paint adhesion and ensures a smoother final finish. Always wear a mask and protective glasses while sanding to protect yourself from dust.
To efficiently remove any lingering sanding dust, I find it incredibly easy to simply run my microfiber mop (similar to a Swiffer but equipped with reusable, washable cloths) over the walls from top to bottom.
For rooms where walls are particularly dirty or greasy (such as a kitchen or bathroom), a simple dry dusting won’t suffice. In these cases, use a sponge to scrub your walls with a solution of warm water and a mild, all-purpose soap. Follow this with a clean sponge dampened only with water for a thorough rinse. Allow the walls to dry completely before you even think about applying paint.
The next crucial step is applying painter’s tape to meticulously mask off any areas you wish to protect from paint. I always apply 2″ painter’s tape along the bottom edge of my baseboards to create a barrier and prevent paint from getting onto my flooring. For carpeted rooms, I utilize my putty knife to gently tuck the tape approximately ¼″ underneath the baseboard, ensuring absolutely no trim paint accidentally transfers onto the carpet fibers:
I also run 1″ painter’s tape along the very top edge of my baseboards. This acts as a shield, protecting the baseboards from any paint splatter that might occur while I’m rolling paint onto the walls:
You might have seen tutorials recommending that you “tape off” your entire room. This involves meticulously applying tape along every line where the wall meets baseboards, crown molding, and window and door frames. The idea is that this tape will allow you to be less precise when “cutting in” with your paintbrush around the room’s edges, as the tape theoretically protects the molding and promises a crisp paint line once removed. However, while many homeowners choose this method, you’ll rarely observe a professional painter taping off an entire room. Why? Because it’s an incredibly time-consuming process, consumes a vast amount of tape, and, frustratingly, paint often leaks underneath the tape in spots, failing to deliver that coveted crisp line. My strong recommendation is to develop your skill at making clean, straight lines with your paintbrush while cutting in. It takes surprisingly little practice to do it well, and once mastered, your painting projects will progress much faster and yield better results than relying solely on tape.
4. Caulk Cracks & Gaps: Ensuring a Seamless Finish
The general sequence for painting a room efficiently and effectively is as follows: first, prime your walls (if necessary), then apply caulk to any gaps, proceed to paint the ceiling, then the walls, and finally, paint the trim. Your room might not require any caulking, but if you observe any unsightly cracks or gaps where your walls or ceiling meet the trim, it’s crucial to fill them. This step significantly improves the finished appearance by creating smooth, continuous lines. Always ensure you use a paintable caulk, such as Alex Plus, to ensure proper adhesion and a uniform paint finish.
5. Master the Art of Cutting In: Achieving Crisp Paint Lines
With your room prepped and caulked, you are now ready to apply your first coat of paint. I’ll guide you through each step focusing on wall painting, but remember that the same principles apply if you’re painting a ceiling. First, open your paint can using your opener and thoroughly mix the paint with a stir stick until it’s consistent. We’ll begin by “cutting in” or “edging” each wall. This involves using your paintbrush to carefully outline the perimeter of each wall, as well as around all doors and windows. Since this task requires moving up and down a ladder, it’s far more practical and safer to work with a small paint cup rather than the entire paint can. Keep a damp rag close by – it’s invaluable for quickly wiping away any accidental “oops” where you might brush too far onto the trim or get paint on your hands.
Start your cutting-in process along the very top edge of your wall, gradually working your way downwards. Dip your paintbrush about ⅓ to ½ way into your paint cup, then gently tap it on the edge of the cup to remove any excess paint. Holding your brush near its base for better control, make your very first stroke approximately ½ to ¼ inch away from the edge you’re trying to cut in against.
Next, go over that initial stroke again, this time carefully guiding your brush closer to the edge. Continue this iterative process until your line of paint is precisely at the edge, creating a clean, crisp boundary:
Once you’ve completed a section, move down the wall and repeat the process. Always blend the different sections you’re working on by lightly brushing over their overlaps. Also, gently brush the paint back and forth along the edge, extending it slightly towards the inside of the wall. This creates a nice “feathered” edge that will seamlessly blend with the paint you later apply with your roller. Aim for your edged strip to be roughly 2-3 inches wide.
Professional painters typically follow a sequence: they edge one wall, then immediately roll the rest of that wall while the edged paint is still wet, before moving on to edge the next wall. This technique helps prevent visible lap marks. However, if you feather the paint well during edging, it is perfectly acceptable to edge the entire room first, followed by rolling paint on all walls. As someone who often paints solo (Jeff was honorably discharged from my painting crew after several incidents, including an unfortunate encounter with an almost-full paint can a few years back! 😂), and given that I’m not the fastest edger, this is my preferred and effective method.
6. Roll on Your First Coat: Techniques for Even Coverage
Now that your edges are neatly defined, it’s time to roll! Begin by placing a fresh roller cover onto your roller handle. Before dipping it into paint, take a moment to prep it: wrap the roller firmly with painter’s tape, then gently but decisively pull the tape off:
This simple trick effectively removes any loose fuzz or lint from your roller, preventing those tiny fibers from ending up embedded in your fresh paint. Next, pour a manageable amount of paint into the well of your paint tray. Gently run your roller down the angled surface of the paint tray, barely dipping it into the paint well. Then, roll it back and forth several times along the textured, angled surface of the tray. This action removes any excess paint and, more importantly, distributes the paint evenly across the entire surface of the roller. Repeat this process (dip, then roll) several times until your roller cover is uniformly saturated with paint. You’re aiming for that “Goldilocks amount” of paint – enough to cover thoroughly, but not so much that it’s dripping off.
Remember, the very first stroke you make on the wall will unload the most paint. If you were to roll in a simple linear pattern from left to right, your paint would be unevenly distributed. Instead, begin by rolling the paint onto the wall in a distinct “W” pattern, covering a section of the wall:
Once your “W” is laid down, immediately roll back over that same space with smooth, overlapping up-and-down strokes to thoroughly fill in the “W” and ensure complete, even coverage across that section:
Continue this “W” pattern and fill-in technique across sections of your entire wall, making sure to slightly overlap and blend each new section with the previous one. Don’t be alarmed if your first coat appears a bit streaky or uneven; this is entirely normal. The subsequent coats will even out the finish and provide the smooth, consistent coverage you desire.
7. Recoat Your Walls: Achieving a Flawless Finish
Once you’ve completed cutting in and rolling the first coat on all four walls, it’s crucial to allow your paint to dry for the recommended time between coats. This drying time varies significantly from one paint product to another, so always consult the specific instructions printed on your paint can for the exact duration. There’s good news for your tools: you generally don’t need to wash your brush and roller between coats, even if you’re not planning to apply the second coat on the same day.
If you anticipate a break of more than 24 hours before recoating, pour any excess paint back into its original can and then carefully place your roller and paintbrush into separate plastic baggies (or wrap them tightly with plastic wrap):
Store these sealed tools in your refrigerator; the cold temperature will significantly slow down the drying process. For shorter breaks, typically less than 24 hours, a simpler method suffices: just wet a towel, wring out the excess water, and drape it directly over your paint tray and roller. This creates a humid environment that prevents everything from drying out:
In either case, bag your paintbrush separately and place it in the refrigerator. When you’re ready to resume painting, take any refrigerated brushes and rollers out about an hour beforehand to allow them to return to room temperature, ensuring optimal paint flow and application. Now, you’ll repeat the exact same process of cutting in and rolling for your second coat as you did for the first. Typically, two coats of quality paint will provide beautiful, even, and streak-free coverage, completely transforming your walls.
8. Efficient Paint Cleanup During and After Coats
When you’ve completed painting your walls entirely (or if you’re transitioning from priming to applying your actual paint color, requiring a new roller), there’s a valuable tool to help with cleanup and paint conservation. Use {this brush & roller cleaner} to efficiently remove excess paint from your roller before washing:
Simply position the curved edge of this tool at one end of your roller and firmly pull it down the length of the roller. This action effectively scrapes off a surprising amount of excess paint, directing it back into your paint can:
Not only does this clever tool make the subsequent cleaning of your roller much quicker and less messy, but you’ll also be astonished by how much valuable paint it helps you save, which can be reused for touch-ups or other small projects.
9. Paint Your Trim: The Finishing Touch
Once you’ve successfully completed painting both the ceiling and the walls, it’s time to focus on the trim (baseboards, crown molding, and window and door frames), if it requires a fresh coat. Start by carefully removing any painter’s tape that you applied to protect your trim from wall paint splatter. Next, use a clean microfiber cloth to thoroughly wipe down all surfaces of the trim, removing any dust or debris that may have accumulated. This ensures a smooth, clean surface for paint adhesion. Then, using a clean paintbrush, proceed to paint the trim with precision.
As discussed earlier, if your trim was previously painted with an oil-based paint, you cannot simply apply latex paint directly over it without proper preparation. You will either need to prime your trim first with a suitable primer or opt for a specialized paint formulated for such transitions, such as Benjamin Moore Advance, which is designed to adhere effectively over both oil and latex finishes. Taking the time to properly paint your trim adds a crisp, polished look that truly completes the room’s transformation.
10. Clean Your Brushes and Rollers & Store Your Paint: Maintenance for Longevity
Now that your painting project is complete, it’s time for thorough cleanup and proper storage, which extends the life of your tools and preserves your leftover paint. If you invested in a good quality roller, you absolutely can rinse all the paint out of it and reuse it for future projects, making it a sustainable choice. To clean latex paint from a roller, run it under lukewarm water, continuously moving the curved cleaning tool back and forth over the roller until the water runs completely clear:
Once clean, partially dry your roller with a lint-free cloth and then allow it to air dry fully by standing it on its end. For an even quicker and more effective dry, you can use a brush & roller spinner like {this one}:
You attach the roller to the spinner and rapidly pump the handle in and out, which centrifugally spins the water out of the roller. This method is incredibly efficient, but be prepared for some water splatter; it’s best utilized outdoors or in a garage utility sink area, as we do.
Important Tip: If your home has a septic system, it is crucial to minimize the amount of paint solids going down the drain. In such cases, it’s often best to simply dispose of your roller covers rather than washing them thoroughly.
To clean your paintbrush, first use a paper towel to wipe off as much excess paint as possible. Then, rinse it thoroughly under running water, utilizing the brush portion of the brush & roller cleaner to meticulously work between the bristles, ensuring all paint residue is removed:
Partially dry the brush with a lint-free cloth and then allow it to air dry completely. While the spinner cleaning tool can also be used for brushes, loading the brush onto it can be cumbersome, so I rarely use it for that purpose. Once your brush is fully dry, it’s best to wrap it in its original jacket or cover (if it came with one) before storing it to protect the bristles and help it maintain its shape:
One additional helpful cleaning product to keep on hand is {this latex paint remover}:
It works wonders at removing dried-on latex paint from surfaces like your paint tray, roller handle, or any other area where stubborn dried paint is proving difficult to remove. For instance, after finishing our bedroom, I discovered a dried paint spot on our carpet (I still have no idea how it got there!). A quick application of this remover completely eliminated the paint stain, leaving no trace.
It is absolutely essential to save any leftover paint for future touch-ups. To ensure proper storage and longevity, first meticulously clean the rim of the can as much as possible with a damp cloth. Then, firmly seal the can by using a hammer to gently tap along the entire top edge, creating an airtight seal. Crucially, always label your paint cans with the date of purchase and the specific room or area where the paint was used. This simple step makes finding the right can for touch-ups incredibly easy in the future. I use these personalized labels (cleverly designed by my daughter) on the side of all my paint cans, making identification a breeze:
Although it’s subtle on a white paint can, the design allows you to dab a small sample of the actual paint directly onto the leafy circle in the middle, providing an instant visual reference for easy matching.
These printable paint can labels are part of a growing printables library I’ve been creating and plan to expand every few months. They’re a complimentary perk for my valued email subscribers! If you’re already subscribed, you can download my printables {here} (the password is included in your most recent email). The labels are perfectly sized to fit Avery brand label #15264, which you can purchase {here}:
Alternatively, you can simply print them on regular paper and attach them to your paint can with tape. If you’re interested in becoming a Driven by Decor email subscriber to gain access to this free printable, along with other exciting future printables (I’m currently working on a charming holiday design!), receive notifications about new posts, and get first dibs on my weekly favorite finds, you can subscribe via the link below. You’ll receive the printables link and password in your very first Driven by Decor email, which usually arrives within minutes!
Click here to subscribe to Driven by Decor emails and unlock access to exclusive printables!
And Finally… Stand Back And Admire the Painting Transformation You Just Made!
The final, and perhaps most rewarding, step in how to paint a room is to step back, take a deep breath, and give yourself a well-deserved pat on the back for the incredible transformation you’ve just accomplished with paint! Our primary bedroom, which I recently finished painting, is still a work in progress in terms of its overall decor (I still need to hang drapes, place art above the bed, and fine-tune several other details). However, I am absolutely thrilled with the direction it’s heading. This is what the room looked like before I began the painting process:
And here is our much softer, airier, and significantly refreshed space now:
Sources: Upholstered bed (fabric is Zuma White) | Nightstands | Lamps | Duvet – no longer available | Gray linen quilt | Gray & white patterned pillows | Camp stools (similar) | Chandelier
Adding the drapes will undoubtedly contribute significantly to a more finished and polished aesthetic; I’m eagerly anticipating getting them hung this week and will be sure to share further updates once they are in place! Embark on your own DIY painting journey today and experience the incredible satisfaction of transforming your home.
Enjoy the rest of your weekend!
