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Travel

ALL the Details of Our Trip: One Week In Ireland

This is the practical path through the project, including the choices that stayed. We just returned from the most unforgettable week-long trip exploring Ireland! It was a fast-paced yet dreamy itinerary that took us from vibrant cities to coastal villages, ancient castles, and countryside drives that looked straight out of a movie. When I shared our travels on Instagram Stories, so many of you asked for more details that I decided to pull together a full blog post covering our itinerary, where we stayed, what we'd do again (and do differently), and a few helpful pointers if Ireland is on your travel list.

If you're dreaming of rolling green landscapes, ancient castles, cliffside roads, and settled pubs, I think you'll fall in love with Ireland just like we did. Jeff's company is based in Dublin, so a lot of our must-see stops and can't-miss restaurants came from recommendations by his Irish coworkers – they steered us in all the right directions!

We packed in quite a bit on our trip but also built in some relaxing downtime toward the end of it. Once The household has covered the suitcase essentials, I'll dive into how the journey unfolded…… (post includes commissionable links; for more information, see my full disclosure statement {here})

What to Pack for Ireland

Irish weather is famously unpredictable, even in summer, so packing smart is key. It can shift from sunny skies to misty rain in minutes, so your suitcase should be all about layers, comfort, and versatility. Ireland is super casual, so outside of {this dress} and {these sandals} that I wore for dinner at Ashford Castle, none of my dressier pieces even left my suitcase.

Here are a few must-haves to pack:

  • Lightweight waterproof jacket: {This one} came with me everywhere. A packable down vest would be a good idea in colder months.
  • Comfortable Sneakers: I lived in {these sneakers} that were well suited to exploring cobblestone streets, castle grounds, and scenic trails.
  • Waterproof Boots: I didn't end up needing them (we had unusually polished weather!), but waterproof boots like {these} are useful for rainy days.
  • Crossbody or Belt Bag: I used {this leather belt bag} that can be worn across your chest or as a fanny pack. I thought it was a great size, but if you want something larger, it comes in a crossbody option {here}.
  • AirPods or Other Earbuds: Super useful for self-guided tours like the Book of Kells.
  • Small Packable Umbrella: I brought {this one} that's super compact.
  • International Power Adapter: I used {this one} throughout the trip that also has USB outlets.
  • Portable Charger: I used {this one} that has built-in cords that fit both my phone and AirPods.
  • Eye Mask: For years The household has brought {this mask} with me on red-eye flights because it has a unique design where it doesn't flatten against your eyes (so it leaves makeup intact). It was nice to have for the first night we were in Ireland too because with the time difference, we went to bed early (and the sun didn't set until around 9:30pm).

Arrival In Dublin: Day 1

We landed in Dublin around noon after a red-eye flight and got our first glimpse of the lush, green countryside on our descent:

Ireland countryside from the plane window

We hopped into a cab and chatted with our driver the whole way into Dublin – the first of many warm, friendly conversations we had with locals throughout our trip. We checked into The Grafton Hotel, which was clean, modern, and located in the heart of the city within walking distance of almost everything.

Our room had a view overlooking the well-known Hairy Lemon pub:

The Hairy Lemon pub in Dublin

After a quick bite at Bruxelles,

Cafe in downtown Dublin

we strolled the city, wandering past colorful storefronts, buildings teeming with colorful flowers, and plenty of pubs, including the famous Temple Bar:

Temple Bar

We made our way to Trinity College, which is home to the Book of Kells. We booked our tickets in advance (highly recommended) and made our way through the self-guided exhibit that does a polished job of bringing the story of the Book of Kells to life.

Then came what was the real showstopper for me – the Long Room of the Old Library that looked like it was straight out of a Harry Potter film:

Trinity College library

Think soaring oak shelves, the scent of ancient books, marble busts, and curved staircases. Breathtaking!

Books in Trinity College library

Afterward, we strolled through the campus courtyard,

Trinity College in Dublin

and then wandered down Grafton Street back towards our hotel, window shopping, people-watching, and soaking up the Dublin buzz.

After a quick change of clothes, we headed to Marco Pierre White Steakhouse, followed by cocktails at Cafe en Seine, a polished Parisian-style bar:

Exterior of Cafe en Seine in Dublin
Cafe en Seine in Dublin

A strong choice is a good cocktail, and throughout the trip, Ireland surprised me with some next-level drinks using a lot of fresh juices and herbs:

Cocktail at Cafe en Seine

After running on just two hours of sleep in the past 38, we crashed hard back at the hotel.

Day 2: Rock of Cashel, Blarney Castle, and Kinsale

After breakfast at our hotel, we took a cab back to the airport to pick up our rental car. If you're wondering why we didn't just get our rental car upon arrival in Dublin, it's because Jeff's coworkers wisely advised us to skip driving in Dublin since driving and finding parking are challenging.

I was glad that Jeff felt confident driving the rental car because I wasn't so sure about how I'd fare driving on the left-hand side of the road. Our first stop was The Rock of Cashel, a striking medieval site perched high above the Tipperary countryside. The scale is massive, which you can see when you compare it in size to the people taking in the sights:

Rock of Cashel

Before hitting the road again, we ducked into Granny's Kitchen for a quick lunch of vegetable soup and brown bread (our first of many soup-and-brown-bread meals):

Vegetable soup and brown bread for lunch in Ireland

Then we headed to one of Ireland's most iconic landmarks: Blarney Castle:

Selfie in front of Blarney Castle

We climbed the narrow spiral staircase and leaned over backward to kiss the famous Blarney Stone, not having any idea beforehand that acrobatics were involved (there's an attendant there who holds onto your waist so you don't slip too far over the edge!):

Kissing the Blarney Stone

The castle grounds were lush and polished (and it was a finished day too!) – we enjoyed visiting the Poison Garden and strolling around the trails:

The grounds outside of Blarney Castle
The lush grounds of the Blarney Castle

Then it was off to the coast to one of our kept stops of the trip, the colorful harbor town of Kinsale:

Kinsale, Ireland

Kinsale is pure Irish charm, with narrow winding streets, pastel-painted shops, and boats bobbing in the marina. We checked into the striking Perryville House, a beautifully restored Georgian home:

Perryville House

I can't say enough about the hospitality and how polished our room (and bathroom!) were:

Bathroom in Perryville House

Outside of our stay at Ashford Castle, it was our kept stay of the trip.

We had a great seafood dinner at Fishy Fishy (within easy walking distance) and ended the night in a pub, pint in hand, tapping along to live Irish music:

Irish beer at pub in Kinsale

Scenic Coastal Drive to Killarney: Day 3

After what we both agreed was the best breakfast of the trip,

Breakfast at Perryville House in Kinsale, Ireland

we left Kinsale and set out on a driving route that wound around Ireland's southern coast with sea cliffs, green fields, sheep-dotted hills, and quaint villages straight out of a postcard.

We stopped at Mizen Head, Ireland's most southwesterly point, where we walked across the Mizen Head Footbridge and took in the striking cliffside views:

The Mizen Head footbridge
Views on walk from Mizen Head footbridge

We arrived in Killarney early that evening and checked into the Muckross Park Hotel & Spa, nestled in the heart of Killarney National Park:

Muckross Park Hotel

Dinner at Colgan's (on-site) was well suited to a quick, casual bite:

Colgans Restaurant in Killarney

Day 4: Castles, Waterfalls and the Ring of Kerry

Jeff started his day with a bike ride through Killarney National Park,

Killarney National Park
Muckross House in Killarney

while I slept in and got a slower start. After breakfast, we visited Ross Castle, which sits lakeside with a backdrop of rolling hills:

Ross Castle

We skipped the castle tour this time and headed to nearby Torc Waterfall:

Torc waterfall

Then it was on to the highlight of the day, driving the Ring of Kerry, which is just as striking as everyone says. The narrow roads wind through everything from rugged coastline to quiet sheep farms and windswept hills:

Driving the Ring of Kerry

Jeff was excited to catch a glimpse of Skellig Michael off the coast, the dramatic island monastery that made a cameo in Star Wars:

Island off of Ireland coast where filming done for Star Wars

We made our way to the towering Kerry Cliffs that were less crowded than the Cliffs of Moher but just as breathtaking:

Ring of Kerry cliffs

Back in Killarney by the end of the day, we went to Foley's Restaurant, where we had a yummy lobster dinner:

Foley's Restaurant

and then spent our second night at Muckross Park Hotel.

Day 5: Dingle and Adare

We spent most of the next day in Dingle, a charming town known for its colorful storefronts, artisan shops, and settled pubs galore. We wandered, shopped, and popped into pubs (including Dick Mack's),

Dick Mack's Pub in Dingle, Ireland

before having lunch at the Dingle Pub:

The Dingle Pub
Lunch at Dingle Pub

Seafood chowder and brown bread (of course!):

Seafood chowder at Dingle Pub

We were told that no trip to Dingle is complete without a stop at Murphy's Ice Cream, so of course we had to partake:

Ice cream cookie sandwich from Murphy's in Dingle, Ireland

After visiting the town of Dingle, we drove the Slea Head Drive loop that was full of polished sights:

Ireland countryside
Cliffs on Ireland's coast

We then headed off to Adare and along the way hit a bit of a traffic snag…. of the sheep variety, as a farmer and his sheepdog were herding their flock down the road:

Sheep herding down street in Ireland

We arrived in Adare, a picturesque village full of thatched-roof cottages and rose-covered stone walls, where we stayed at Dunraven Arms Hotel:

Dunraven Arms Hotel

We grabbed dinner at Auntie Lena's, a settled, casual restaurant within easy walking distance of our hotel.

Day 6: Castles and Cliffs

After breakfast in Adare, we drove on to Bunratty Castle:

Bunratty Castle

It was unique in that several rooms had been restored/re-created to show you what they would have originally looked like:

Interior of Bunratty Castle

There's also a recreated village where you could wander in and out of houses and shops:

The village at Bunratty Castle

Then it was off to the legendary Cliffs of Moher. We lucked into yet another polished day with clear, blue skies (a rare gift on the cliffs!):

Cliffs of Moher
Cliffs of Moher

After lunch at McDermott's in Doolin (which won our award for best seafood chowder of the trip), we made our way inland for a once-in-a-lifetime stay at Ashford Castle. The grounds are absolutely striking, and the service was unlike anything The household has ever experienced.

Ashford Castle

Our room didn't disappoint either:

Our room at Ashford Castle

Dinner at their Michelin-starred restaurant was my first-ever and absolutely unforgettable. Each course was a work of art,

Ashford Castle dinner

ending with the most heavenly desserts:

Dessert at Ashford Castle

Ashford Castle: Day 7

After such a fast-paced trip up until this point, having a slower day was just what we needed. In the morning, Jeff played a round of golf while I went to the stables for horseback riding:

Ashford Castle stables

I actually grew up horseback riding and did it all the way through college, so I loved that their rides are private (it was just the trail leader and me), so you get to do more than just walk if you pass their skills test in the ring.

Jeff and I met back up in the afternoon for a leisurely bike ride through the forest trails and neighboring village:

Bike riding at Ashford Castle

We had dinner at Cullen's at the Cottage, a seafood restaurant on the castle grounds:

Cullen's at the Cottage

It was some of the best seafood the household has ever had:

Seafood dinner at Cullen's at the Cottage

We ended the night in the castle pub,

Pub at Ashford Castle

Jeff with a smoked cocktail:

Drinks at Ashford Castle pub

and me with an Irish coffee:

Irish coffee

The service throughout our stay at Ashford Castle was top-tier but never stuffy – just warm and thoughtful in every way.

Back to Dublin + Jameson Toasts: Day 8

We had planned to join the morning walk with the castle's resident Irish wolfhounds, but unfortunately it was canceled (the guide was out sick). Still, we had a little meet and greet with the furry crew before we said a reluctant goodbye to Ashford.

The dogs or Ashford Castle

We headed back to Dublin, where we wrapped up our trip with a tour of the Jameson Distillery. It was a super fun (we had a lively group!), interactive tour with tastings and a little whiskey education:

Jameson Distillery

Jeff had done the Guinness tour before, and said that was worthwhile doing too.

We capped off our final evening with a steak dinner at FIRE Steakhouse:

The next morning it was time to head to the airport to fly home (I flew solo since Jeff was staying in Dublin for business). Thanks to Jeff's airline points, I was bumped up to business class – ice cream sundae, reclining chair, and settled blanket included. What a treat!

What I'd Do Differently (Not Much)

Honestly, there isn't a whole lot we'd change about our trip, but a few things to consider are:

  • Spending an extra night in Kinsale or Dingle and taking out one of the many coastline drives we did for a slightly slower pace.
  • Extending the trip by a few days to fit in Galway, the Aran Islands, or Connemara.
  • Adding another night onto Ashford Castle and going directly to the airport from there the next day, without going back into Dublin (if budget allows – the castle is pricey!). We would have loved to have done one of the falconry experiences at the castle that we heard were notable!

If you're planning your own Irish adventure, It would help if this post gave you some helpful pointers and insights! We're already dreaming of going back so we can explore a northern route!

XO,